Absinthe Reviews of Absinthe Brands Thujule , Sebor, Wormwood, Jade, Lucid, Pernod, Red, GreenFairy, Green Devil, Czech, French
So you want to buy absinthe for yourself – but which one? There are over a hundred brands worldwide, and the manufacturers of each claim that theirs is the best. That’s far too many to review in one article, but let’s tour a few of the best-known brands.
Absinthe is made in a number of countries, but France and the Czech Republic are the two biggest producers. French absinthe has all the rich cultural associations, but devotees of Czech absinthe (or ‘absinth’ as its spelled in Czech) would like you to remember that they had the good sense never to ban the drink in the first place, and have thus been making it longer than anyone else.
Sebor Absinth – around $115 for a 500 cc bottle
Made in the Czech Republic, Sebor sells their absinth direct to the consumer – but as it’s priced in British pounds this is ruinously expensive. Is it worth it?
Sebor make much out of their high thujone content, the chemical ingredient said by some to make absinthe unique. They falsely claim it's chemically related to THC, the active chemical in marijuana, but after a few minutes at their, um, colorful website we felt a bit high ourselves. As it’s a blend of pressed herbs with added pure alcohol, Sebor doesn’t qualify as a true absinthe. Indeed, Sebor market themselves as brewers rather than distillers.
Eing a blend, it’s a murky rather than a pure green, and doesn’t form a nice louche when mixed with water. The flavor is extremely bitter and unsubtle, which might be why Sebor market it as more of a cocktail ingredient than a drink to be enjoyed for its own sake.
Pernod 68° - around $50 for a 700cc bottle
Pernod is considered by many the Rolls-Royce of the absinthe world, since Henri-Louis Pernod opened the first Absinthe distillery in Switzerland way back in 1797, and vintage pre-ban Pernod is highly sought after.
Since 2003, Pernod is back in the absinthe game with Pernod 68° - the ‘68’ referring to the percentage of alcohol, as well as a nod to France’s bohemian politics. Technically, it’s called ‘Pernod 68° with extracts of absinthe’, and the rear label confirms it’s absinthe-flavored rather than a true absinthe.
Still, Pernod haven’t entirely forgotten their roots, with a pleasing natural color and a rewarding louche as the water is mixed in. It is very bitter, dominated by anise: you may want to add extra sugar. Available and affordable, it’s a good starter option but not truly special.
Lucid Absinthe Superieure – around $60 per 750cc bottle
Lucid means business: it comes in a forbiddingly dark bottle which stares at you with intimidating green eyes, almost daring you to try it. French distiller T.A. Breaux has high standards, distilling lucid in a traditional manner and avoiding any blends, mixtures, or added ingredients.
If you can get past the fear factor, it looks very good indeed – a rich green color that forms a satisfying louche when blended with the water. Sugar is optional, as this absinthe has rich flavors of fennel, mint and pepper surrounding the mainstay of wormwood.
Handy tip: when the eyes start winking at you, you’ve had enough. Recommended.
Jade Absinthe Edouard 72 – no website; about $110 for a 750cc bottle
Jade, a major name in absinthe distillery, named their most popular product after Edouard Pernod, considered the master distiller a century ago before the ban took hold in France. And the 72? 72% alcohol of course, for a 144 proof.
Although slightly harder to find and quite expensive, Jade have received huge praise for this vintage – an almost hypnotic green color as it’s poured out, a swirling, opalescent louche, and a deliciously creamy blend of anise and mountain herbs.
A very traditional tasting absinthe, and one you can be proud to serve to guests.
Red Absinth – about $50 for a 500cc bottle
The tiny L’Or family distillery in Czechoslovakia produces a variety of different absinths, and their main hobby outside making absinth appears to be drinking it.
One of their offerings that’s definitely safe to import is their unusual ‘Red Absinth’. From the glaring red color to the Bolshevik-looking bottle, it’s plain that this is not your usual absinth. Indeed, it’s not really absinthe at all since it’s flavored with cinnamon rather than anise. It does contain thujone, which L’Or describe as a ‘neurotic drug’.
It tastes…intense. And cinnamon. And you’d better not spill any, because it seems to use industrial strength food coloring. Interesting, but only for the novelty value.
Green Devil – absinthe kit, $15 - $55
Green Devil have an unusual idea; rather than selling absinthe, they sell you kits to make your own. Each kit contains the herbs and spices in something like a tea bag, along with instructions; you supply your own bottle of vodka and/or Everclear.
The idea is simple: pour the spirits into a jug, drop the herb packet into it, and then leave it alone for a few days while the chemicals in the herbs dissolve out into the alcohol. Then squeeze out the tea – er, herb bag, run it all through a coffee filter, and you have absinthe.
Well, theoretically at least. What you’ll end up with is some green anise- flavored vodka with very high levels of thujone. It’s worth a shot if you really don’t want to spend any money, although their top kit does include a nice pair of traditional absinthe glasses and a spoon.